The Artificial Leg

9th May

All seems to be going well so far with both the mechanical and physical aspects of my artificial leg, by which I mean that the leg itself is standing up to the strain and the cold, thanks to a thorough service by Penny and the Withington ALAC, and also that my stump continues to be healthy; I have to be careful to keep it clean and that it does not rub sore. To this end I have meths wipes and carry an extra leg sock and a foam “wedge” to ensure the socket remains a tight fit. I have the use of my knee and the leg bears on the patella tendon and where the leg widens below the knee. I have also always preferred to have a cuff strap above the knee to help prevent movement.

In practice on this expedition, because of the altitude slowing the uphill pace to a crawl or less at time, the stress and chances of problems have been reduced. It is the long battering downhill from ABC over rough ground, which is the potential problem. Trekking poles and 30+ years of experience “out on a limb” in the mountains have helped to complete two descents without incident. It requires registering something is becoming loose and having the discipline to stop and make adjustments before a problem develops. In fact I have had more problems with the Trekking poles than my leg as the threads have stripped in both lower sections, so they gradually shorten as I walk.

I am using a standard NHS leg with a sprung foot for my main walking/climbing leg. Its springiness helps in walking boots but probably makes little difference when strapped into big rigid climbing boots. For knocking about BC and as a back-up, I have a spare leg with a “ Seattle foot”. This is a compound plastic foot (complete with toes and veins!) robust, flexible but not so springy.

I am relatively fortunate with both just one leg and it being below the knee. We have seen quite a bit of Mark Ingles, a New Zealand double amputee with Russell Brice's Himalayan Experience Group. By comparison his problems must be compounded but he has the advantage of purpose made legs and so does not need cumbersome high altitude boots! There is also a prosthetist in their team for running repairs; I made a mental note, if required.

I lost my leg originally in a mountaineering accident in the early ‘70's when a large block crushed my foot. We were trapped on an inaccessible pillar in sight of but high above Chamonix Mont Blanc (France) for two days until, in one of the most daring and dramatic helicopter rescues in the Alps, I swung 1000m into space and hence to the safety of the valley. Gangrene had removed any remote possibility of saving my foot. Fortunately, with the aid of modern prosthetics and the support of my climbing contemporaries, I was back rock and ice climbing within a few months and have been able to continue, enjoy and develop a lifelong passion for mountaineering.

The opportunity to join Everestmax, after hearing about it through Sarah's involvement, became irresistible and is proving immensely satisfying as we've gelled into a strong, friendly and supportive group. With a lot more luck (weather and health) and even more effort still to come we have a good chance of getting most of us to the top and, who knows, even one of the few artificial legs to have made it too!

Today has seen the departure of Ro, Dickie and Patrick for a leisurely walk to IC, then onwards to ABC with ambitions for the N Col. Andrew has made a reccie of the route to Tillman's camp prior to going up there to add the Army West Ridge Team to his study. The Sky TV crew plan to film this and it may be broadcast later this week. Phil and Pauline will have moved on up to ABC from IC and Dom and Sarah are hopefully up on the N Col today. The weather rumour mill is predicting a window from the 16th to the 22nd , after some days of unsettled conditions, and we are starting to line up teams to take advantage of this. More of us will be moving up over the next few days.

Posted by Nigel

Life at 25,000 ft

8th May

Life at these heights on the mountain is all about coping with the elements and working as a team. When Andre, Jamie, Andrew and Seb arrived at the tents the first job was to get snow into the pans and boil up water; we need to drink between 4-6 litres a day which takes hours to boil. One small consolation was that we were able to eat boil in the bag army rations- a great relief after the Tibetan diet of Yak curry. After eating it was to bed early as once the sun goes down the temperature drops immediately and it is a very long night. Most of the night is spent concentrating on breathing. Andrew woke many times gasping for air almost as soon as he dropped off. This is because he was suffering from altitude induced ‘sleep apnoea'. This is an alarming condition but it is essentially harmless. At these altitudes the natural state of breathing is hyperventilation. Unfortunately this means we breathe out all our carbon dioxide, which the brain uses to stimulate breathing. Our brain then gets fooled into thinking that we don't need to breath and breathing can cease for up to 2 minutes. The resulting gasp as you recommence breathing is shocking for all concerned. Andrew barely slept all night.

At 4.30am we awoke to start the laborious task melting more snow to rehydrate and prepare for the days climb. As we woke up in a hypoxic stupor we were initially fooled into thinking you are outside as snow was falling on our heads. The condensation from our nights breathing had frozen and was now falling all around us as we desperately tried to keep warm and get our kit on. Opening the tent we were greeted by an overwhelming panorama of Himalayan peaks framed by crystal blue skies and a glowing sunrise.

Once climbing the initial shock of only taking 10 steps before doubling over for breath takes a while to get used to and then after several hours climbing, our bodies felt totally spent and the climbing soon slowed down. As we approached Camp 2 the ratio of steps to breathing was in the order of 5:30. We were at the limits of human physiology and it was only through teamwork and encouraging each other that we made the final ridge to camp two. After a brief drink and chocolate bar we climbed on from camp two where the snowy ridge gives way to a rocky scramble, which leads to up camp three. We reached the dizzy height of 25,000 ft (7,600m) before turning around as a snowstorm was approaching. It seems bizarre to be climbing at the height that planes cruise in the sky. However, when climbing on Everest you almost take it for granted the heights you attain. None of us could believe how exhausted we became as we descended to the safety of the North Col and then onto ABC.

Climbing to camp two is the last challenge to be met before going for the summit, as it is from here that we will start using oxygen for the final push. We are now recovering at base camp and waiting patiently for the weather window.

Posted by Andre and Andrew

The Monastery

7th may

Hello folks! Yes I am happily back from Interim Camp. What was it like? Well to be frank the walk was the hardest thing I have ever done. OK, OK so we should expect hard work but the rise in altitude and an overly heavy rucksack made it pain plus – you would not believe the quiet smugness of those descending. One bumps into the odd Everest legend on the route – and if one came into sight I made sure I quickened my pace, stopped wheezing and tried to appear relaxed – after exchanging a few manly words without exhaling I walked on and collapsed behind a rock where Sonam, our head sherpa found me sunbathing half an hour later – not the stuff of legend. Not one cheerful thought gladdened my mind on route. On arrival my kind and supportive companion Nic, when wanting to discuss the uncomplicated beauty of the glacier and penitentes, got monosyllabic answers as I keeled over and slept. Andrew has consoled me by saying that one should only ascend 300m a day – I misheard and have kept faithful to 300m a month – I am due to summit in April 2008 !

Yesterday we went down to the Rongbuk monastery. We thought we would hire one of the gaily coloured horse and carts. One hour of haggling later five off us set off for the monastery. None of these beasts has ever won the 4.30 at Cheltenham! Initial excitement was generated by the fact that one of our Discovery Channel friends was dressed superbly as G.Mallory. Why? Well his great uncle was on the 1924 expedition and they are making a documentary. Visiting tourists were certainly taken aback. The 5 mile journey down was truly spine jolting not least as we had a flat. Pointing dolefully at the tyre our driver asked for more cash - a bit rich given the free chiropracty ! Once there we had a noodle lunch and wandered into the monastery.

By chance a prayer ceremony was taking place and two of us were invited into the prayer room. Wearing deep maroon robes the monks and mitras (female monks) sat cross legged on low banquette seats. The room itself is mostly red lacquer and the walls are adorned with images of the Lord Buddha and Bhoddisatvas lit from a long narrow window above the door. The Abbott recites prayers towards the altar which contains gold statues of Buddha and two other deities.

Recognised from our own Puja the monks and the Abbot smiled and made us welcome – we were later even offered a stew during their brief lunch break. Low chanting and readings from holy texts were interspersed with the drone of both low and high horns and the clash of cymbals. The ceremony was spiritual and human and a vivid testament to the survival of this deeply spiritual and kindly people.

Everest looms 4 km away and the efforts of our lads and lasses is truly put into context by the clarity of the challenge ahead. The Sherpa's left base camp for the last time this morning and consider the 15 th May as highly auspicious given that it is Lord Buddha's birthday. We are in good spirit but will need luck.

Posted by Patrick

CAMP TWO HEROES RETURN.

6th May

Three of our intrepid Everest Expeditioners returned to Base Camp today from the North Col and Camp 2 (just in time for lunch). Jamie Rouan, aged 24, from Cheltenham, has been well known to us all during the last few months. His superb cycling skills have seen him safely across eight thousand kilometres and eight different countries as he tries to become one of the first people in the world to go from the lowest point on earth to the highest – The Dead Sea in Jordan to the Top of Mount Everest. Sebastian Bullock, aged 40, also from Cheltenham, is married with three children (all under the age of 6!!). Andre Zlattinger, aged 33 from London, is married with two children (one of them is brand new!!). They have both joined the Everestmax team on the mountain to try and lend some much needed culture to the evening conversations!!!

I caught up with them on their return and asked them about their recent adventure on the mountain..

Hi Jamie, welcome back..
“Thank you, it’s good to be back at Base camp again (just in time for lunch)”
Tell us about your trip to the North Col and beyond..
“Well, Seb, Andre, Andrew and I went on our second trip up to the North Col two days ago. We stayed the night up there and then pushed on to Camp 2 the next day. We returned to ABC that afternoon and then came back down to Base Camp today for a well earned rest (just in time for lunch).”
You say this was your second time up the North Col, was it any easier than the first?
“The climbing was not quite as hard the second time but we had a lot more equipment as we were staying the night so our packs were heavier.”
What part of the trip did you find the most difficult?
“The last 20 metres up to Camp 2. It seemed to take about half an hour. I couldn’t do more than ten steps without having to take a rest, leaning on my ice axe”
What was the best moment?
“I’d say about half way up the North Ridge. I stopped and looked around and the reality of being there just hit me. I could look down on the clouds and the view was fantastic”
I have heard that whilst cycling your thoughts were often quite basic.. have your thoughts on the mountain been any more pure???
“No”
Thank you Jamie.. nice beard by the way.

Sebastian, good to see you looking so well, tell us about your high point from the last few days.
“I think the best part was camping at the North Col. The views from the tent are just amazing.
What would you say was your most difficult moment?
“It wasn’t so much a moment as a movement! I needed the men’s room at 7600 metres and there aren’t any. The complications involved in removing harnesses and down clothing, on a steep snow slope in the freezing wind is hard to explain and even harder to do.”
I see! What are your thoughts about the next few weeks and hopefully the summit?
“I don’t think about the summit. I take it one stage at a time. This trip has given me confidence about going on to Camp 3 and after that we shall see.”
Thank you Sebastian..

Andre, you are looking very clean and tidy, how do you manage to keep yourself so manicured at altitude?
“Well, I decided before the trip that I was going to be clean shaven throughout. There are certain standards I think it is important to up-hold. It also helps Jamie if there is someone with less beard growth than him”.
What has been the high point for you?
"Being on Everest and seeing the summit. I have probably been taking it for granted up till now. But from camp 2 it is so close.."
So you are definitely going to go for the summit?
“Hopefully..”
What did you think of the food at the North Col?
“Excellent.. army rations chicken and pasta boil in the bag, mmmmm, Lancashire hot pot, fruit pudding and custard, yummy, corned beef hash for breakfast.. really good.
What was the hardest part?
“I think coming down.. it is exhausting. Then to finally get down to Base Camp and find I have missed lunch!!!!"

Thank you boys.. It’s been great talking to you. Have a relaxing time at base camp, you deserve it.

The Intrepid Dr Andrew Sutherland, (aged 32 from Oxford.) was supposed to be interviewed today but was unable to attend due to fiddling about at ABC for too long.. he will no doubt turn up just in time for supper as usual. (He did).

ABC.. Sarah and Nic

BC.. Everyone else!

Posted by Ro

The Waiting Game...

5th May

Now that we've entered May most teams on the mountain are waiting for the weather to improve. Traditionally the jet stream winds that sweep across the summit drop before the onset of the monsoon, which is still a few weeks away. This so called ‘weather window' allows climbers the chance to reach the summit in relative safety. Most of our team have now slept on the Col (Camp I at 7050m) and in some cases have pushed all the way to Camp II at 7500m. This is as high as we need to go before an actual summit attempt. As and when the conditions allow we will ascend from ABC to the North Col in a day and sleep there. A 500m ascent up a long snow slope takes us to Camp II. Spending the night here entails sleeping on oxygen before the punishing ascent to Camp III at 8300m. Another night on oxygen is necessary here before the final push to the summit the next day. You will see that we need the best part of 5 days stable weather for a successful summit attempt hence the ‘waiting game' that we have now embarked on. Some of our team are likely to be ready as early as mid-May should the conditions allow. Others are hoping for another window perhaps around the 20 th of May. Our official leaving date for the mountain is the 27th of May so you can see that time is a little tight. However, for now we are happy to stay put and wait for good conditions. Our sherpas have done a great job in equipping the high camps with food and oxygen. Yesterday we tested the oxygen sets fully and the new TOPOUT mask designed in the UK, which should give us every chance of success.

A quick word on emails. We have been inundated with messages of support and good wishes from home. So many in fact that we are struggling to reply to them all. We receive our emails every morning but replying to them can be tricky. With limited fuel our generator is only on for two hours a day and keeping everything charged is a constant battle. Many of you have signed on as official supporters and we appreciate your £50 donation enormously. Remember half of everything we receive by this means goes towards the three charities that we are supporting. Thanks for your continued support and stay tuned!

Today in basecamp we have myself, Dickie, Ro, Nigel, Phil and Pauline, Chris and Patrick

In ABC - Nic and Sarah

Seb, Jamie, Andre, and Andrew were today attempting to reach the Camp II after spending last night on the North Col.

Posted by Dom

Monday's Descent from North Col to Base Camp

4th May

We started melting snow for brews before 7.00am, having heard the first people passing our tent, heading for the North ridge, about 5.00am. By the time we were ready to leave at 8.30 there were already a string of figures stretched all the way to the top of the snow on the ridge at 7,600 m. Three days later and there are rumours of Sherpas reaching the summit and completing the fixed line; maybe this was their departure. Chris and I had decided that, with no one at ABC, it was worth the effort of descending all the way to BC for R & R and company.

We left our tents, which are out on the col proper, pitched on a meringue shaped snow and ice cornice hanging above the East face, and wove our way through the main “village” of at least thirty tents, sheltering under a 10 metre ice cliff. Down the 6 metre ladder, now bedecked with prayer flags, to the lower platform with another dozen tents. All around out of the seracs are old bits of rope, reminding us that everything is on the move and how much it must change from year to year.

The first pitch down from this ledge is the steepest on the face and most people abseil. There are three ropes and already two were taken by Sherpas ascending (they are very quick but even so they must have had an early start from ABC) and so some cooperation was required to untangle crossovers on the way down. We were just clear when Pauline's voice came over the radio for the morning check – all was well.

We continued down with a running karabina on the lines, often backed up by a French prussic. A pause half way down the face to shed a layer as the sun was intense, then on to the base, where harnesses and crampons could be exchanged for an extra Leki pole. It's amazing how quickly all that effort of ascent a couple of days ago can be negated.

Sonam and Dorjee were on their way up with more supplies - oxygen?, and we exchanged greetings. Then it's off across the glacier, with a frustrating anomalous initial rise, to gain the lateral moraine and its ridge leading to the “tent city” of ABC. Our particular “suburb” is at the far (lower) end and we were glad to find flasks out in the mess tent and a new delicacy, strawberry Tang, to help us re-hydrate.

After a repack, we are off again at mid-day in just a shirt, three layers less than the last time for me! At 1.15pm we meet Seb on his way up direct from BC and learn about others heading for IC. Chris presses on ahead and as I plod at my own pace, I calculate my descent time to be about the same as that of Seb's ascent, hey-ho! I realize another major difference on this descent is that the creaks and cracks of the glacier have been replaced by the sound of running water. Stepping stones are required to cross glacier melt water streams and occasional detours across near vertical screes to avoid where the path has been flooded.

The afternoon clouds up with snow flurries and cag and over-trousers etc are donned whilst refuelling. A pleasant interlude, made more-so and protracted by the arrival of Dom, Andre and Jamie and the opportunity to exchange news and plans (I'd also passed Andrew near IC). The final section was notable for the increase in wildlife, mainly birds, most engaging of which are the Tibetan Snow Gog, a sort of partridge. I counted fourteen and at one stage had four scuttling ahead of me for several hundred metres.

I arrived as supper was being served in a full warm mess tent as we have scrounged a gas heater and had guests from the Army. Beer and whiskey were consumed in moderation commensurate with our achievements to date and we chatted on late by candle-light. I had taken half an hour of my last 7 hr ABC to BC descent time, Seb still has our best at 4 hrs, but yesterday Tshering came down in 3 hrs after going up and down the North col!

Today's (Thursday's) movements are planned as follows:

Andrew, Andre, Jamie and Seb; ABC to North col to stay.

Nic; ABC

Dom; ABC to BC (expected for lunch and made it!)

Sarah; IC to ABC

Patrick; IC to BC (arriving with Dom? – No, later – 2.15!)

Phil, Pauline, Row, Dicky, Chris and Nigel; BC (filming some of the lower functions of camp life)

Posted by Nigel

CAMP 2 (7600m)

3rd May

Nigel and I have just spent 2 nights at the North Col (7050m), perched on a snow precipice, basking in the sunshine of the day and freezing in the plummeting temperatures of the night. A welcome culinary development at these higher altitudes is the introduction of army rations. We enjoyed beef and dumplings, followed by a rather rich treacle pudding. The cold forced us into our sleeping bags by early evening and we soon fell into a 12 hour postprandial snooze. Our tenting neighbours, Phil and Pauline, were up and off by 7am the following morning. We opted for the more leisurely start of 9.30am. Embarrassingly, we were preparing to leave at the time Phil and Pauline returned (after they had climbed to 7400m). Dressed in our full down regalia, we embarked upon the steep snow arête to camp 2.

Nigel made it to 7300m before turning back, but I was keen to continue. Progress was good until I reached 7500 metres, the last 100 metres were hard with me taking 2 steps per 20 seconds. After a number of hidden rises, camp 2 finally appeared. There were no tents only pegs and bits of string, cordoning off areas for future encampments. I sat and marvelled at the spectacular scenery – Pumori, Cho Oyu , and views back to the North Col.

I know I will be back here in 10 days or so, armed with oxygen to attempt the summit. The route looked so clear and attainable, but I know it will be hard. I have long dreamt of this moment and I never thought that it would be a reality. I did not pause for long as it was 3 pm and the clouds were gathering. The 5 hour journey took less that 1 hour to reverse. On my return Nigel was waiting at the North Col. I bundled into the tent and Nigel kindly fed me noodles, chicken and pasta, and we raided the supplies for a chocolate pudding. Fed and content, I snoozed in the evening sun. Tomorrow would see us return to Base Camp for a week or mores rest before we begin our summit attempt.

Posted by Chris