The Summit Beckons!
12th May Things are hotting up here in basecamp quite literally. The weather has warmed considerably and so long as the wind stays down it is positively warm. The weather forecast for the next 10 days or so is looking very favourable and the winds that often blight the summit should ease.
Many teams have now started the long ascent back up to ABC (6400m) from where they will launch their summit bids and Everestmax is no exception. With all 11 climbers feeling strong and healthy we are going to be pushed to give everyone a chance for the summit. The plan is to go as two groups. The first group of 6 intend to begin their summit bid on the 14th of May when they will ascend to the North Col (Camp I at 7000m). On the 15th they will climb to camp II at 7500m and sleep on oxygen for the first time. On the 16th they will complete the long ascent to camp III at 8200m which is still to be established by the Sherpas. That means that the 17th is the potential summit day (all the way to 8850m) for the first Everestmax team members. On the 18th they should return to ABC
The first summit group will consist of Phil and Pauline Sanderson, Chris Owen, Nigel Lyle, Seb Bullock and Andre Zlattinger.
The second group are looking to leave ABC on the 19th of May and will follow a similar five day programme with their potential summit day being on the 22nd of May.
That team will consist of Dominic Faulkner, Jamie Rouan, Nic Clarke, Sarah Lyle and Andrew Sutherland.
All being well our departure date from the mountain remains the 27th of May. Do keep following our progress as the next couple of weeks should be very exciting!
Posted by Dom Turning back
11th May
You may have noticed that I spent rather a long time up at ABC on my last trip. I certainly didn't intend to stay for that long! While amazing, Everest is a very funny place to be and it's not simply a case of good weather and good health; your head has to be up for it too.
On the day that Nic and I did our day trip up the North Col a couple of weeks ago we were forced to turn around 50m from the top by cold weather. It was still a huge achievement and we both came back feeling strong and really pleased with the day. If you look at it critically though we didn't reach the top.
On my next trip to the North Col I was also with Nic. It's a 2km walk going up 250m from ABC to the bottom of the ropes on the North Col. At first you are walking up beside the glacier on the lateral moraine. The path then swings left up onto the glacier and you don crampons to walk the final 1/2km to the bottom of the ropes. You end up having done 1/3 of the total climb between ABC and the North Col by the time you get to the bottom of the really  steep bit. When I got to the bottom of the ropes for the second time I felt absolutely exhausted, as if I'd already climbed the North Col twice. It was a horrible feeling. I then had to make a really hard decision - go up with Nic and be in a stronger position time wise but potentially not have the energy to try to get to camp II, or go down and wait for Dom and go up with him. I chose the latter and it was incredibly hard to turn back.
I then had a couple of days waiting at ABC; Dom had been held up at BC. It gave my head time to mull things over, never a good thing!! I kept coming back to the fact that I'd tried the North Col twice and it had beaten me both times. When it came to the morning that Dom and I set off to climb up to the North Col I was really really nervous. The climb had become quite a big stumbling block for me. Happily I felt a hundred times stronger when I reached the bottom of the ropes than when I'd turned back, which was a huge confidence boost. You have had plenty of reports about the climb itself. The final part, the part which I hadn't done before, was certainly the hardest and I'm glad my mum wasn't there to hear my language when I finally got to the top of it! It was really satisfying though, mostly because it killed a demon in my brain that said I couldn't do it.
People are preparing for the final push now, trying to let their bodies rest and trying to work out the logistics that go with such a large strong team all wanting to have a push at the top. The next two weeks will be an incredibly exciting time for everyone both here and back home so do keep following our progress. It would be awesome if we could reach the summit on the supporters page too - have a look at the messages from present Official Supporters - we're beating you height wise at the moment!
Now as to where people are:
BC - Andre, Nic, Seb, Jamie, Dom, Patrick, Sarah
ABC - Phil, Pauline, Nigel, Chris, Ro, Dickie
Army Base Camp - Andrew
Posted by Sarah |
the others occupied themselves with thoughts of summit bids, I set off for Tilman's camp, where the British Army are based, for two nights. I would like to stress that I went to the army in the name of medical research. The fact that I was treated to the delights of weetabix, malt loaf, wine gums, minstrels, camembert, cheddar cheese, whiskey and rum was purely incidental. I was very impressed with the morale of the army and it was an exciting time to stay with them as they are just starting their final push for summit. They are climbing the West Ridge and the Hornbein Couloire a formidable task which the army has attempted twice before unsuccessfully. The view from their camp is spectacular they are some 10km closer to Everest and surrounded by beautiful mountains including Changtse, Pumori and others. 
Inbetween helping myself to more cheddar cheese I managed to recruit 14 members to my study, including the leader Dave Bunting. The scanning became a little difficult as the sherpa team started to gamble right next to my research facility'. I also met the Sky News presenter (Gerard) who is covering the army trip. He plans to show some Everestmax footage on Sky News over the next couple of days. Altogether, I had an excellent trip which, following the amount of food that I ate, prepared me well for my summit bid which will hopefully be towards the end of next week.
ntinues to create meals that will satisfy the hunger requirements of the team. This is no easy feat, but he is doing brilliantly and last night made us a glorious chocolate cake. It must be mentioned that all of the staff from Thamserku who are here on the mountain have so far been brilliant and they are a credit to their company. From the staff in the kitchen tents to the Sherpas who will hopefully get us up to the summit and whom are taking tents, oxygen and food up to the high camps, they are always helpful and smiling.