The Descent Continues

22nd May

At 0730 this morning, Health and Safety finally caught up with Sarah's Tea House and have closed it down pending the results into allegations of cockroaches (ridiculous) and unsuitable outdoor conveniences (true i'm afraid), filed by the Chinese Tibet Mountain Association who control all outlets on the mountain. I will be contacting my lawyers later this morning. All reports were that the Tea House was life saving, not life threatening.

As a result, the team were forced to leave their luxury, but cold accommodation and head down the mountain towards Camp 2 for further sustenance.

After an expected break of an hour or so they will head for the North Col.

It is unsure at this stage whether they intend to reach ABC this afternoon or tomorrow morning (2hrs fm NC).

The forecast for today and tomorrow morning is good with little or no wind and bright sunshine. Both afternoons will see cloud, possible snow and increased winds.

Elsewhere.

Phil and Pauline will return to Base Camp this afternoon. Ro and I are hanging out the bunting and painting the rocks red, white and blue for the royal arrival.

Patrick of Everest will continue his philanthropic quest to ABC. He was last seen heading up with 50 Yaks, a guitar and a flask of Earl Grey Tea. Hearing this news, Nic has decided to walk down to meet him and give him the welcome he deserves.

More news later

Posted by Dickie

Update 1715

21st May

Dom, Jamie, Andrew and Sarah are remaining overnight at Sarah's Tea House at Camp 3.

Tomorrow morning they will set off for the North Col and Camp 2.

The only incident that seems to have happened today is that Dom lost a crampon descending the 2nd Step. Normally this would be rather serious (understatement) but as there are fixed lines all the way down to the bottom of the North Col we are not concerned. As a precaution however and to balance his forced limp, Nic has sent replacements with our Sherpas who start to clear our equipment off the mountain tomorrow.

The weather forecast is favourable and improving all week.

If you have found the last 24hrs as stressful as I have then please take this as good news, grab the first bottle from the fridge and drink it. Then, calmly invite your friends round for a quiet celebration of the achievements of EverestMax, explaining that it is a warm up for the main event tomorrow, when they are further down the mountain.

Fortunately, the Spanish team have delivered some wonderful jamon for us to devour. I have been salivating all afternoon and have decided that the best accompanyment will be a bottle of beer, I hope Ro agrees.

Your next update will not be until 0900 tomorrow.

Our fingers remain crossed.

ABC: Nic, Nigel, Phil & Pauline.

IC: Patrick

BC: Dickie and Ro

Posted by Dickie

Update 1415

21st May

Dom, Jamie, Andrew and the Sherpas have just arrived at Sarah's 8000m tea house.

They are expected to re-hydrate for an hour before making the 2hr descent to Camp 2 where they are expected to remain overnight.

Not forgetting Patrick, he left for Interim Camp just before lunch. He is expected at ABC tomorrow afternoon.

More Later.

Posted by Dickie

A Dream Come True

21st May

At 0850 this morning (0305 UK) when most off you were asleep apart from those with close connections to EverestMax and all of us on the Mountain who have had yet another sleepless night, EverestMax achieved, and achieved for many reasons.

As Dom, Jamie, Andrew, Karma and Tshering stood upon the summit this morning there was rightful elation, but how long it takes for them to realise their achievements, who knows.

I am particularly pleased for Dom, without whom none of us would be here. It has been his inspiration, vision, tenacity, drive and at times darn right stubbornness that has led the team 8000Km from the Dead Sea in Jordan, through 8 volatile countries to Everest Base Camp.

If you cast your mind back 6 weeks Dom immediately struggled with the altitude, got a minor case of HAPE, had a retinal haemorrhage and was ordered down the mountain to recover. Returning, apart from his eye, Dom was as strong as anyone but needed more time to adjust. As a team, it was great to have him back at the helm but deep down I never thought he should or would be able to go above Base camp. How wrong I was.

Now 5 months to the day that we left the shores of the Dead Sea he stands on top of the World. With him, Jamie our youngest member of the team and Andrew, the Doctor who has been a marvellous asset and relentless in attending to almost every groups' needs. Even en route to the summit Andrew gave assistance to a Canadian at the North Coll, in desperate need of help. Full of energy and a consummate professional, he can never leave his day job.

When Seb, Chris, Phil and Pauline achieved their goals earlier in the week, they inspired and as Pauline spoke from the summit ‘this has been a team effort and that EverestMax has completed it's journey.' To me, it has been the strength of the team that that has pulled us through. Across 8 countries I cannot recall an argument and on the mountain, the introduction of the 8 specialist climbers was seemless. Such was the draw of Dom, be it through idle curiosity or magnetic personality, it has worked.

Well before you raise too many glasses towards Everest, send us some prayers for their safe arrival at Camp 2 this afternoon. So far the weather is holding and lady luck seems to be leading them down.

Our finest achievement, however, will be when we are all home with loved ones safe and sound and able to reflect and share the experiences of a trip of a lifetime.

MORE NEWS LATER

Posted by Dickie

Summit Fever

20th May

Well here we are again. The second summit window is closing and EVERESTMAX are poised to make their third bid for Everest glory.

Dom, Jamie, Andrew and Sarah all reached Camp 3 (8000m) at 1500 this afternoon, well ahead of schedule. This allows them 8hrs rest, re-hydration and preparation for their 2300 summit attempt departure. I'm sure this was meticulously planned by Dom who loves his sleep.

Sarah, our resident chocolate spread monster, and newly appointed Everest heroine, who has done superbly well to make 8000m and achieve her personal goal, has unselfishly decided to stay at 8000m until the summit team return. This gesture cannot be underestimated and the boys will owe her tea for life when they are presented with hot drinks galore on their climb down. A privilege very few climbers could ever boast about. If I hear any complaints I will back her all the way.

Also backing up the team tonight are Sherpas Karma and Tshering who are due to join them at Camp 3 at 2100. Karma and Tshering spent much of the morning taking extra rest at Camp 2 before heading up. Tshering is Sonam's (our head Sherpa's 19 year old son) and has summited before and hopefully this will be Karma's first time to the top of the World.

As I write, the wind has dropped as has been the trend over the last month and the skies are clear. The winds are due to pick up in the morning by which time we hope they will be well clear of the Summit and on their way down.

An hour ago we lit Juniper and incense with our cook Natti at our Base Camp Pujah shrine. After the juniper smoke took our prayers to the summit he declared it should be a successful trip. We hope he is right and wish everyone the best of British and Nepali luck. We will pay homage to the mountain again early in the morning and hope that soon afterwards we will be able to post our latest news.

Elsewhere….

Nic and Nigel were joined at ABC by Phil and Pauline who will rest for a day before returning to BC.

Patrick, AKA ELVIS gave a fine concert to Russel Brice's team last night and as is traditional will leave the building for Interim camp tomorrow. As is befitting an international superstar, he will have a Sherpa carry his gear.

Ro and I are keeping things afloat at BC.

Andre, Seb and Chris caught a bus to Kathmandu this morning in desperate need of a bath. We will miss them and wish them a safe journey home and healthy supplies of Radox.

Posted by Dickie

Summit Experiences

19th May

Chris Owen Avoids The Touch!

There have been numerous rumours about what Seb and I been up to over the last few days, so we thought we would qualify this with our own true version of events. We left Camp 3 (8000 metres) at 9pm at night on the 16th May. The trail was empty and snow covered. Seb led the way sharply uphill for the first 2 hours until we hit the summit ridge (8400 metres). Good progress was made along the ridge, and we ascended the first and second step without difficulty (despite the batteries in my head torch failing on the first step). Things became hairy when we reached the final snow wall that culminates in the summit. I began to feel tired and my hands became cold. I caught up with Seb (at 8600 metres) who identified the cause – I had run out of oxygen, for how long who knows! Seb wired me up with my new cylinder, and I soon felt better. I also took some medications just in case. Seb and I discussed the merits of continuing – we decided to go for it, especially as we thought we were so close to the top. As always things are not what they appear - it was further than we anticipated. Despite this we made it. Having made the summit none of our digital cameras worked and we had to rely on a cheap disposable camera that I had bought just in case. Lets hope the pictures come out! After 12 hours without food we were shattered, and ready to return – hence, we did not linger.

Seb was understandably concerned about me, and that he may need assistance to get me down. As things turned out we became separated between the climbers descending, and I got myself down. We met at the end of the ridge where I radioed in to report that I had had a ‘funky gibbon' but I was feeling better.

It was an exhausting climb down but by midday we were back at Camp 3 for a rest. After re-hydrating and snoozing we left at 3 pm for Camp 2, as we were keen to sleep below 8000 metres. After a restless night, we returned to the North Col and Advanced Base Camp the following day for a well-earned rest.

Seb On Top

Setting foot into the darkness at 8000m, at 9pm on Tuesday 16th May, en route for the summit of Everest, was a moment of great trepidation for me. This was new territory for me in every respect and the overwhelming feeling I had was of respect for the mountain and of the fragility of my existence on it. On account of setting off from a slightly lower camp, Chris and I were the only people moving on the mountain at that time, and indeed made fresh tracks all the way to the summit. The feeling of isolation was intense throughout the climb, partly because of climbing at night, but also because I found myself focusing intensely on every footstep and handhold, to the exclusion of everything else around.

The west ridge to the summit runs at about 8500m, and along this there are a number of steep sections, two in particular, known as the 1st and 2nd Steps. Climbing along this ridge provided a spectacular view across a moonlit Himalaya on one side and a vertiginous drop on the other. At one point I was dramatically called to a halt in my tracks by the sight of a pair of climbing boots in the path ahead. I then saw that there was a body slumped against the rock – I was frozen to the spot until Chris spoke to me and managed to encourage me onwards.

During this section of the climb, Chris experienced some problems with his air/oxygen intake, which resulted in him needing to stop when we reached the foot of the summit pyramid at about 8600m. A change of oxygen cylinder and some medication resulted in Chris immediately feeling strong again and we decided to push on to the summit.

At 5.30am Wednesday 17 th , we were finally able to stop climbing. The impact of that moment is still sinking in, but at the time my feeling of physical and mental exhaustion was overwhelming and it was difficult to appreciate where I was. Hopefully, we took some photographs on a disposable camera, and then started the arduous journey home.

As always, the descent of any mountain can be the most dangerous part, when fatigue takes over and even small mistakes can be costly. Chris and I were both exhausted, having been on the go for nearly 12 hours without any food or drink. At this stage I was concerned that Chris might struggle with the descent and radioed to ABC to say this. It soon transpired that my concerns were unfounded, as some chocolate and drink returned Chris to his usual form and we both descended in good time to Camp 3, where we stopped for a couple of hours, and then to Camp 2 where we spent a comfortable night.

Now at Base Camp, there is time to reflect fully on the past few days and most importantly, make sure that everyone else is clear about our Everest experience.

Elsewhere on the mountain

Phil and Pauline are staying at the North Col overnight and are expected at ABC tomorrow morning.

Dom, Sarah, Andrew and Jamie headed up to Camp 2 today.

Posted by Chris, Seb and Dickie

Summit Update

18th May

The longest climb achieved !

Today at 6.00am Pauline Sanderson became the first person to complete the longest climb on earth from the Dead Sea to the summit of Everest. Climbing strongly with husband Phil they arrived at the summit in good conditions and were reported as heading comfortably down towards Camp III for a well earned rest

Chris and Seb are soon to arrive at ABC after their successful attempt and will rest before heading back down to BC.

Dom, Sarah, Jamie and Andrew set off this morning on their own summit bids and we will keep you posted as to progress. Ro and Dickie will arrive back at BC this evening.

Andre has re-considered his summit bid after making impressive, early headway on the mountain. Having achieved his personal targets he returns to BC in the next few days. Nic and Nigel are resting up and will consider their options after the present attempt.

Posted by Patrick

Summit Update

17th May

A Marathon day!

Today the Everestmax expedition had its first two Everest summiteers

Seb Bullock and Chris Owen left Camp III at 8.30pm last night and summitted at dawn this morning.

As a team we had a very anxious night awaiting news. Their ascent wasn't without incident with oxygen running low and exhaustion setting in. They are now making good progress as they make their way safely to Camp II at 7500m where they will be able to spend a comfortable night.

Yesterday Ro and Dickie achieved their target of climbing the North Col.

Phil and Pauline Sanderson will set off tonight for their summit bid at 10.00pm local time (5.00pm UK time). They are going well and Oxygen is fully available.

We will keep you posted as to progress.

Posted by Patrick

Summit Update

16th May

Again a good weather day on the mountain. Seb and Chris spent a good night on Oxygen at camp II and arrived at Camp III (8000m) at 3.00pm today. They will attempt the summit at 9.00pm local time (4.00pm) UK time.

Phil and Pauline have stayed two nights at the North Col and have arrived at Camp II (7500m). They head up to Camp III tomorrow.

Ro and Dickie have set off for the North Col.Nigel is fine after a cough / cold and is resting up at ABC as is Andre who awaits the arrival of Dom, Sarah and Andrew from interim camp to prepare for their summit bid.

Nic and Jamie set off today and will head straight to IC before arriving at ABC to prepare for their summit bid. All other members are at ABC.

All the team are in good spirits and weather permitting we expect people to progress up the mountain.

Weather conditions look good for now with settled weather until the 19th when we expect some wind. Around the 21st/22nd another good weather window is expected and again we are grateful to our French friends, Bernard and Phillipe, for their accurate forecasts.

Posted by Patrick

Summit Update

15th May

News from the mountain is that the weather has been good today and Seb and Chris have successfully reached Camp II from the North Col. Tomorrow they will head up to Camp III whilst using oxygen. Phil and Pauline are still at the North Col having decided to stay an extra day there due to excessive traffic on the mountain.

Meanwhile last night Nigel decided to head down to ABC due to health reasons. He will remain at ABC in case a position becomes vacant on the next summit team when his health should be better. Dickie and Ro are also waiting at ABC to attempt the North Col in better weather - this should take place on Tuesday.

Dom, Andrew and Sarah today left Base Camp and are heading for Interim Camp tonight before heading onto ABC tomorrow. Nic and Jamie will be leaving Base Camp on Tuesday and having one night at Interim before getting to ABC and joining the rest of the second summit attempt team who aim to leave on 18th May.

The weather reports we have been receiving have been favourable with clear conditions reported until 21st May. Winds will be slightly stronger on the 19th then becoming milder. (Meteotest have kindly provided us with some weather reports prior to today and we express our gratitude to them for this service).

Posted by Nic

Summit Madness

14th May

Many readers will no doubt think by now that we spend our time watching DVD's, fantasising about home comforts and sleeping – not so – we have strict exercise regime designed to put us in tip top condition for the summit.

Our dear doctor Andrew spares himself no rigour in a selfless pursuit of summit glory. At breakfast, apropro of nothing Andrew announced that he wanted to swim in a glacial lake. There being no immediate mental health services to consult we humoured him and tried to change the conversation back to the porridge that had recently become available.

Thinking he had forgotten we happily set about preparing our own daily exercise plans – mine involves lying down horizontally looking at the ceiling of my tent and falling into a peaceful yet purposeful trance. Andrew though, grabbed his towel and headed up the moraine chased by 5 friends / carers – the lake was deep blue and looked very cold located as it is in a frozen glacial moraine. Wasting no time he stripped off, prepared himself mentally and elegantly launched himself into the tourquoise depths. We all headed back fearing the worst only to see him emerge from the frozen deep, appearing like a lean and hungry dolphin. Applause and a few tears greeted this only for Dom to shout, “ Can you do it again – I didn't quite get it on camera!”

Andrew of course did – I doubt if we will see anything as heroic or selfless on this trip!

Life is good right now – elevated by the kind donation of some army rations from our West Ridge colleagues. We have stopped talking about food and now ask searching questions about who we would most like to meet – after the expected role call of politicians, philanthropists etc. Jamie replied without hesitation “ Michael Jackson!” We put this down to youth and are not too worried – yet!

Yesterday we went to the pub – well the local shanty town and waded through a snow flurry for 30 minutes. Pleasant stuff in our favorite tent although the Tibetan custom of not being allowed to put your glass down meant that some of us drank more than we wanted – Sarah.

Oh Everest ! Well our friends at ABC have set off for the North Col today as part of their summit bid. Andre will wait until we arrive for the 18 th / 19 th to rest up.

The weather nonsense is ongoing with every expedition having it's own theory about when the treasured weather windows will occur – basically as everyone is up at ABC if it's good you go for it if not you wait !

The next few days will bring you news as and when we get it in the meantime best of luck to our team.

Posted by Patrick